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Archive for August, 2012

Kalbarri Info

Posted by robjwall on August 24, 2012


I have extracted some of these old Kalbarri route descriptions from my diary / brain. Neither is very well organized. These descriptions and grades all need checking!  This is not consumer cragging, but always an adventure.  You will run out of water.

Stellar Wall. All 20m. <1km up river from 4 ways on river right. Obvious clean wall with overhanging off-width on RHS. Routes from R to L

“Hollis Chimney” 16, Owen Davis 2005.  The offwidth, actually better than it looks. “The Rest of the Robots” 22, Rob Wall. Sustained climbing on 4 bolts and cams, Go left of the crack feature at to to finish on [new lower off added this year by Remi]. Owens Route 22 (shares same lower off). 2005 * “Absence of the Bear” 7 bolts to loweroff. 24 Kate swain, 2005. The best route on the wall. “The Aimless Blade of Science”. The interesting bolted arete. 21 Rob Wall, June 2006. [this route could use another bolt before the first perhaps – if you want to put one in, do so!].  Lower off two bolts (quite spaced) at the top of the hard climbing.Red Wall. 1.5km upstream from 4 ways on river left (the sunny side). The obvious red wall facing down river. “Red Woman” 15m Grade 20+ Up middle, around L side of cave. Trad gear to bolt belay on top.Done ground-up style. Rob Wall / John Smart, August 2005. Most loose rock removed during FA.  Its a long walk off, or rap off the bolts (very hard to pull rope 😦 ).Wonder Wall. The largest clean wall in the Gorge (its on river right) , but suffers from seeping.  About 2km up from 4 ways.  Very good camp cave on river left with some bolts on top of wall above cave (left rhs top-rope problem is very good and was done by Dan and Rob in 1990s and is about 21 – the others are harder – I don’t recall if they have been done or not). The main wall on the R is above water, and has an unfinished Rob Wall / Dan Harris bolted project from 1990s in the middle, and one bolted route on the left. “The one that saves me” 23. Access from RHS of  ‘purple haze’ ledge.  Rob Wall, April 2009. Wonderwall  central butress has a good trad crack / overhang: * “Purple Haze”, 19 Rob Wall/Dan Harris 1995ish. Lower off tree on large ledge. The first route in the area. “Bridge over troubled waters”. 15. do purple haze, walk R on ledge and make improbable moves across and up (close to CCT L2), and easily up to top of gorge. Rob Wall / Gerard Chipper, mid 1990s. Pete McKenzie also came here with me one trip and led the runout easy slab up from the L of purple haze. Wonderwall  left side is accessible from a broad ledge and has some routes L to R “High class games of sorrow” Trad. L1 17. Obvious crack then flake left of tooth.  L2 23?  up from flake into wild overhanging country, crux was scary traverse R & use kneebar to place pro?. Rob Wall / Florean Wellman.  Use 2 ropes? “Cracken” 22 obvious R trending crach up tooth. . Wires then 4 bolts to BB. Rob Wall oct 2008 “The Cure” 22 up hand crack then 2 bolts to BB, Ed Nepia Oct 2008 “can’t change time” Trad.  L1 19. very R of wall up wide crack (bouldery start, needs bolt) then easily up to purple haze ledge. L2 21. walk R then wild foot first move up. Rap 28m to water. Rob Wall / Florean Wellman.  “Secret Garden” 12m, A very nice grade 5, is about 100m left of the central butress at the very left of the ledge system.  FA Demelza Wall (solo) 2005.

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