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Archive for January, 2017

Routes at Secret South Coast Spot…

Posted by robjwall on January 1, 2017

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kira

Kira Wall on the FA of “No Hoes”.

Crocboating Area:

The following 3 routes share a two bolt anchor on top of the “Croc Boat” boulder.  The starts are all normally  separated by fresh flowing water! To get off, leave crabs on the bolts or solo off via a tree on the back (easy but exposed)

Left. Croc Boaters 10m, 3 bolts  (grade 17). Kira Wall April 2011

Middle. Just a couple of crimps 11m, 2 bolts (grade 18). Rob Wall April 2015

Right. *No Hoes (grade 18, easier if you stay right?).  12m, 3 bolts. Kira Wall April 2011.

The next route is on the face of the big boulder to the left (downstream). ie in the Chimney.

**Aladeen 12m, 3 bolts (grade Aladeen, but harder (prob Aladeen) if you don’t lean back on the Croc Boat boulder).  Tarky Wall April 2011

Further down the creek on the right side is an excellent bolted arete/chimney 12m  (grade 20???). **No name.  FA by S.

On the other side of the creek is a really good hard short 7m finger crack (grade 21?)  *Crime.  FA Rob Wall April 2011.

 

 

 

 

Magic Faraway Tree area

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Rob Wall near top of  Sandcrawler, 20

To get here walk past ‘Crime’, uphill on river left (ie East bank) on a sort of track, under a tree and over some rock to an obvious cliff about 80m uphill.  You know you are in the right place when you see the most amazing tree (and some bolts shhh).  From right to left the routes are

magic2

FA of Magic  19

team

Bolting team hard at work.

team2

Bolt man

Sandpeople 13m, grade 17, 3 bolts to rings. Starts on top of the flake/block. FA T Wall Dec 16.

*Sandcrawler 18m, grade 20, 5 bolts to the same rings.  Sustained. Bring spare fingertips.  R Wall Dec 16.

big blank section then:

Magic 15m,  grade 19, 3 bolts to a two bolt belay

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