New Stirlings route “Castle on a cloud”

CASTLE ON A CLOUD – ON “THE BLACK BISHOP”

FA (PITCHES 1-4) ROB WALL, INGVAR LIDMAN 2 MAY 2022

Follow ridge walk from Ellen Peak to left (East) of South Face of Pyungorup until you are almost under the giant detached tower of this route. (“The Black Bishop”)
Walk 50m up and left on steep slope through sharp reeds to flat rock ledge and obvious line to top of tower 120m above you.

View of route with me on unclimbed future 5th pitch – PHOTO CREDIT LIDMAN

Take 10-12 quickdraws

1. 28m 18 climb up easy ramp and right to wall with some tricky moves to BLO on ledge
2. *crux 28m 21 move easily up on good rock to short steep crux, then up easy headwall to BLO on ledge
3. ** 20m 18 pull joyfully up jugs to improbably easy steep and exposed section to a BLO on small ledge
4. 18m 16 follow arete and move slightly right on slab to BLO
5. CLOSED PROJECT

Rap route on 60m rope

UPDATE, SINCE FA, I.L. KINDLY ADDED MORE BOLTS TO GREATLY REDUCE POSSIBILITY OF HITTING LEDGES…

Foreshortened view from based of route

There is a castle on a cloud
I like to go there in my sleep
Aren’t any floors for me to sweep
Not in my castle on a cloud
There is a lady all in white
Holds me and sings a lullaby
She’s nice to see and she’s soft to touch
She says Cosette I love you very much
I know a place where no ones lost
I know a place where no one cries
Crying at all is not allowed
Not in my castle on a cloud